How To Dispute An Unauthorized Bank Charge

Ever scrolled through your bank statement and suddenly gone, “Wait—what the hell is this charge?” That gut punch of seeing money pulled from your account without warning is way too familiar—and frustratingly common. Whether it’s $9.99 from a company you’ve never heard of or a hefty charge that appears out of nowhere, the first reaction usually blends panic, confusion, and suspicion. Is it stolen card info? Did you sign up for something without realizing? Or is your bank just out here wildin’ with billing errors?

It’s not always a criminal doing shady stuff with your card. In fact, a big chunk of unexpected charges come from legit-looking businesses using sneaky billing tactics or riding on poor communication. Streaming services, trial sign-ups, monthly subscriptions—you know, the kind that hide details in 10,000 words of Terms & Conditions. This happens to people of all ages, income levels, and tech savviness. You don’t have to be careless or targeted to end up in this mess. All it takes is one overlooked fine print or auto-renew setting you didn’t even know was on.

But here’s the thing: acting fast—and being a little nosy—makes all the difference. Understanding what actually counts as an unauthorized charge gives you power to not just get your money back, but to keep it from happening again. So let’s decode what qualifies, and what’s just legally murky.

What Counts As An Unauthorized Transaction?

Not every unexpected charge screams “fraud,” but many still count as unauthorized. The trick is knowing where that legal and ethical line lands, so you can challenge the charge with facts—not feelings.

• Outright fraud: This is what most people think of first—someone hacked your card or cloned your info and made a purchase you had nothing to do with.
• Shady subscriptions: Ever tried to cancel a “free trial,” only to realize a month later they billed you anyway? If you didn’t agree to keep paying, that’s unauthorized.
• Shared card drama: Got a roommate, teenager, or partner making purchases on your card? If you didn’t give clear permission—even if it’s a loved one—it may still be disputed. The catch? If you’ve handed over your login or card more than once, banks might say you “enabled” it.
• Bank mistakes: Duplicate charges, glitch payments, or ghost transactions for stuff you never received all qualify as errors…and yes, they’re disputable.
• Tricks in plain sight: Some merchants intentionally label charges to sound familiar (think: “Online Solutions 123” or “Service Fee US”) so they slide past unnoticed. If the business isn’t who they claim to be or didn’t deliver, the charge isn’t legit—even if it looks it.

Unauthorized doesn’t always mean illegal—but it does mean you didn’t agree to something happening to your money. That distinction matters when your bank decides whether to take your side.

Your Immediate First Steps — Don’t Wait

Clock’s ticking the moment that charge hits your account. Banks give you a set window to report it—usually 60 days from when the statement is issued, not when the charge itself happened. Let that window close and you lose some serious protections, including your right to a full refund.

Here’s your straight-to-the-point checklist:

• Take screenshots of everything: The charge, the merchant page (if you can find it), and any emails or texts. If it vanished later, you’ll still have proof.
• Lock or freeze your card: Don’t just hope it was a one-time thing. Most apps let you temporarily block new charges in seconds. This doesn’t cancel your card but adds a safety line.
• Reach out to the merchant—fast: Some companies are surprisingly willing to refund if you catch it early. Keep it short and fact-based. If they promise a refund, get it in writing (email or even a chat transcript).

If the merchant won’t budge—or doesn’t respond—it’s go-time with your bank. Most banks now let you dispute right within their mobile app or website. Navigate to the transaction, tap “Report a Problem” or “Dispute” and fill it out. Be honest, include what you tried with the merchant, and explain clearly why it wasn’t authorized.

Pro tip—don’t waffle. “I’m not sure if this was me…” won’t get you taken seriously. Be confident in your wording. Even if the charge came from a real company, your signature (or lack of one) is what counts.

Disputing might feel like a pain, but dragging your feet almost always backfires. The quicker you get your receipts and story lined up, the smoother this battle gets down the road.

And if the first answer from your bank is “no,” that doesn’t mean it ends there. But let’s save that fire for what happens behind the scenes—and how to make it harder for them to say no in Part 2.

Inside the Bank’s Dispute Process

If you’ve ever spotted a weird charge on your statement and thought, “I didn’t buy that—what now?” You’re not alone. What happens after you hit that “Dispute” button? Turns out, a lot.

What the bank really does after you file a claim

Once your dispute is submitted—either through your banking app, website, or over the phone—the bank starts digging. They don’t just look at the charge; they look at you. They’ll compare it to your usual behavior, past disputes, and even your location activity (yep, location data plays in).

You might get a provisional credit within a few days, which is like the bank saying, “We believe you… for now.” It’s a temporary refund while they check things out.

How merchants are notified and why they fight to deny it

The moment you file, the bank alerts the merchant’s bank. That small charge? It kicks off a money tug-of-war. Merchants often get hit with chargeback fees, so they’re quick to push back. Think subscription services, booking platforms, gaming purchases—many have entire teams trained to fight disputes. If they’ve got a signed agreement or digital footprint that looks like consent, expect them to argue it.

Provisional credit: what it means and when they can reverse it

This credit makes life a little easier while the mess gets sorted. But don’t treat it like a win just yet. If the bank decides in the merchant’s favor later, they take that money right back—no heads-up given.

This hurts most when you’ve already spent it, so it’s smart to treat it as “maybe money” until the final say drops.

Common reasons banks reject disputes — even when you’re right

• You waited too long — over 60 days from the statement date kills most claims.
• You didn’t gather solid evidence (proof beats emotion every time).
• The charge looked similar to past spending habits—you tipped the pattern scale.
• You got tricked, but technically “agreed” to the charge — like forgetting to cancel that free trial.

The hard truth? Banks lean conservative. If there’s any trace of consent or if the vendor makes a better paper trail, you might lose even though it feels unfair. That’s why your evidence has to be airtight.

Case timelines: when to expect updates and final outcomes

Most banks resolve claims inside 45 days, but the upper limit is 90. You’ll usually hear something within two weeks—especially if a provisional credit is issued. Final decisions can drop with zero fanfare—just an app update or a statement change. So watch closely. And if it disappears silently? Time to escalate.

How to Build a Case That Wins

You think you’re right. You’re sure that charge wasn’t yours. But “being right” doesn’t always win bank disputes—proof does. Let’s talk about how to stack your claim so the facts shout louder than the merchant’s defense.

Proof that works — and what doesn’t matter at all

Statements like “I didn’t authorize this” help zero unless there’s something to back it up. So what actually works?

• Screenshots of conversations with the merchant, especially where you asked for a refund or cancellation.
• Email receipts that prove what you did—and didn’t—buy.
• A copy of the product description that misrepresented the item or service.
• Terms and conditions showing there were no automatic renewals or hidden fees.

What doesn’t hold much weight? Emotional appeals, long explanations about why you needed the money back, or screenshots without context. The play is: make it hard for anyone to argue you were wrong.

Crafting a strong dispute letter (yes, wording matters)

Your dispute letter is more than just a note—it’s your evidence summary. Structure matters. It should briefly explain:

When the charge happened, why it wasn’t authorized, what the merchant said when you contacted them, and what proof you’re attaching.

Use clear, factual language. Skip the rant. You’re building a case like a lawyer, not commenting on Yelp.

Receipts, emails, terms and conditions: what to prepare

Start from the end and work backwards. If you’re arguing that you canceled, find the email confirming that. If there’s no record, say that honestly but detail the steps you took. When possible, attach:

– Service or product receipt
– Subscription history
– Merchant communication
– Screenshots of the account page or cancellation portal
– Billing terms or “fine print” from the merchant site

This isn’t overkill—it’s survival. The burden of proof sits on you.

How screenshots can anchor your story

Say you canceled a subscription. A screenshot of your account page that says “inactive” or shows no usage since the charge date? Game-changer.

Trying to prove non-delivery for an item? Screenshot the tracking stuck on “pending” or the email where support ghosted you. Screenshots act like receipts the merchant can’t delete.

What to do if you never signed up for something — proving “non-consent”

One of the hardest disputes is when something was “technically” set up in your name but you never gave the green light. Maybe a kid used your card, or an ex had your login. Maybe the site snuck in a box you forgot to uncheck.

To prove non-consent, you’ll need to show a lack of login activity, mismatched email addresses, no confirmation emails, or lack of recurring charge agreements. It doesn’t have to be perfect—but it should make the bank pause long enough to question the charge’s legitimacy.

Push Back Harder: What If They Side Against You?

You followed the rules, sent in the receipts, and still ended up losing. That sting cuts deep—especially when the charge wasn’t truly yours. Here’s how to keep fighting.

Re-disputing the same charge — your rights

You can absolutely re-dispute a charge—if you bring new evidence to the table. Just repeating the same story won’t work. But if a merchant lied, ghosted you, or you suddenly found that old email confirming the refund? Resubmit. Banks often reopen resolved claims when new detail appears.

Filing a complaint with the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau

If your bank mishandled your claim or failed to investigate properly, the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau (CFPB) can step in. It’s free, online, and forces the bank to respond. The CFPB doesn’t decide the case—but banks hate being on their radar, so complaints often shake loose a resolution.

Taking it up with the merchant’s corporate office (escalation templates)

If your dispute failed but you still believe the merchant acted shady, go straight to corporate. Don’t waste time with frontline customer service again. Send an email with:

– Your name and account details
– The charge in question
– Summary of what happened
– Clear request for a refund or resolution
– Any evidence they should see

Be polite but firm. Some people even get refunds after lost disputes when they hit the right department with the right tone.

What to know about arbitration — and why it’s stacked against you

Some banks or merchants push for arbitration when disputes escalate. Sounds fair, but in reality? Arbitration often favors companies. Hearings tend to be private, slow, and expensive. Rarely worth it unless large amounts of money or legal violations are involved.

Final option: switching banks if they fail to protect you

Here’s the truth most banks hope you don’t realize: you don’t owe them loyalty. If they drag their feet, reverse a legit refund, or keep siding with sketchy merchants—take your money elsewhere. Credit unions and digital-first banks sometimes take fraud claims more seriously. Closing a card may be a hassle, but long-term trust matters more than convenience.

Keep your receipts. Stay cool. And when needed—go louder. This system was built for people to get lost in it. That’s why knowing how to fight back isn’t just savvy—it’s survival.